In which we get back on our bikes and ride!
Our last morning in Oddballs had us heading over to the nearby Xaxaba village. This is where many of the camp staff live – particularly the guides and it’s about 25 minutes by mokoro. It was Dave’s idea to ask if we could go as a way of seeing the true local way of life.
On the way to the mokoro we spotted our first giraffe in the area, after being promised over and over by our guides that they were common here. Their camouflage is amazing – at 100m range, if they don’t move you can’t see them.
Robert has been rowing the mokoro for Paul and me and he earned his breakfast today. Pushing two large guys through the reed-beds all the way there and back was hard work.
The village was very interesting. The living is simple – mud-brick houses (with a layer of aluminium cans as a termite barrier), thatched roofs, water pumped to a central tap from a borehole, some limited community services in the village but things like schools are back in Maun.
The local women had laid out a market of crafts in the town square – wood carvings, beadwork, weaving – and we bought a few things (they take USD). My view is that this transaction is the price of admission for coming to their space, and I make it gladly.
After breakfast back at camp, we packed everything up and flew back to Maun. It’s not everyday you see an elephant out the window on takeoff!
Overall, the visit to Oddballs was a true highlight of the trip and I’d probably say personally a top 20 life experience. It was the “true” African experience and I really enjoyed it. I’ve already told him, but I am thankful Dave called me and invited me on this trip.
Once back in Maun, we retrieved our bikes and suited up for the ride to Shakawe. We’d been told the road was in pretty poor condition and that was right. Lots of potholes, places without tarmac at all, places with some tarmac. Lots of loose stock, traffic… oh, and it was HOT. Topped out at about 39ºC when we stopped for lunch. We were pouring water down our shirts and wetting our neck tubes to keep cool, but it was still hard work.
One thing I enjoy about riding motorcycles is that you interact with the people you ride past. People smile and wave, kids run out and wave and dance. I think it’s because a) motorbikes are an exciting fantasy for many people, and b) you are visibly another person so there’s a connection – in a car you’re just part of a machine. There’s been a lot of this here on tour, however I did have some little shits run out and try to throw stones at me as I zoomed past. Good luck trying to hit something moving at 130 km/h, you little bastards.
We are reunited with the rest of the crew tonight for the last 2 riding days. Tomorrow we cross back over into Namibia, then on the last day we finish our ride at Victoria Falls Zimbabwe.
Nearly done!
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